luang prabang

laos and cambodia

2025-03-28

I take a late-night flight from Hyderabad to Luang Prabang via Bangkok.

0600

I arrive at Bangkok. No lounge access, so I wait it out and board the onward flight.

morning

I reach Luang Prabang to hazy mountain views after immigration. I take a tuk-tuk to the hostel, exchange $150 for 32K, and get a physical SIM with generous data.

At Mad Monkey I rent a scooty for 20K for 29 hours.

1100

I have a breakfast of eggs, bacon, bread, and a mango shake.

1130

I head towards the Pak Ou Caves, around 30 km away. The roads are mostly good, and along the way I pass junkyards and modern trucks that make the whole stretch feel oddly industrial.

afternoon

At the caves I pay 15K for the boat ride and hop on. The lower caves are quiet and peaceful, packed with Buddha idols. The upper cave is stuffier and harder to reach, but it has larger Buddha statues.

1345

I come back down and find the boat already waiting for the return ride.

evening

Back in the city, I wander around and catch sight of a full moon over Luang Prabang.

At sunset I ride out to Phousi Hill. The river views are beautiful, and before heading up I stop for apple pudding and pie at a bakery. From the top I watch the sunset, notice vendors selling agate rings, and see the night market taking shape below with handcarts rolling in.

1839

I head back to the hostel hoping for a dip in the pool, only to find it under maintenance.

2100

I find a cozy restaurant for noodles, rice, and a beer, then wander through the night market and pick up some deep-fried snacks for 10K each.

2300

I make it back to the hostel and crash into my bunk.

2025-03-29

0330

I wake up absurdly early and quietly head for Kuang Si Falls.

On the way I stop for breakfast at Paddy Pod Omelette and then again at the Mekong Riverfront restaurant.

0845

I reach the falls and take a buggy in. There are young bears playing around in the sanctuary, and the falls themselves are gorgeous.

midday

We swim in the pools below the falls for a while, but cut it short so we can get back in time for the train.

1030

I leave for Luang Prabang and end up relying on dumb luck because we are running late.

1115

I reach the station just in time.

1250

I board my first bullet train and head to Vang Vieng.

#draft